Times they are a changing

I'd never thougt I'd be researching wilderness permits for the High Sierra by the end of the summer. But that's what I'm doing. Coming Feb, 10th, 2 pm GMT, I will have to send in a request for a permit to use a Yosemite trailhead to access JMT on August, 10th.

With 700 requests daily, it'll be tough to get one of 20 daily permits. But there are options and we have a few days leeway.

Gone are the days, I was thinking about an AT through hike. The more I read about the current state of things on these long distance hikes, the less I feel compelled to attempt one. Don't get me wrong: I hot great admiration for these thru hikers but I am bot sure if this is the right "hike" for me. AT has become somewhat of a party trail with a lot of college drop outs and so called court-holderes, revered hiker-gods, attempting their 23 rd thru hike and living off their followers on the trail. Not my kind of hike.

I guess, the AT is more about the 2200 mile journey, the people you meet along the way and the soul searching pilgrimage. It is appealing, also to me. But the more I train, hike and read, the more I find myself to be one of the instant gratification kind: kill yourself on a 5 mile switchback and enjoy the amazing view on top of a pass. Trek 12 miles and enjoy camp at a shore of the likes of a Cathedral Lake.

So withonly 6 hiking weeks to spare for 2016, I'd rather spend 3+ weeks in the High Sierra than 4 werks on a section hike through the Appalachians.

Soon

Two more weeks and I'm off. A few more stressful days and I will be enjoying the Highlands. Haven't been this excited for a long time. Not only have I been working straight for the past 4 months but I am really looking forward to the hiking part.

I've been training on a regular basis but weather over here begins to get foul. But I've been going out nonetheless. After all, I need to step up my game if I want to hike the JMT next year.

There have been some developments since last time I wrote. I've been welcomed by a wonderful community based on the app Yonder: the "Yonder Buds". The group members organize get-togethers for various parts in the US and there is a Yonder-meet on the AT in April 2016. A few guys who want to hike the Appalachian Trail in the Smokeys for a week or so. So I decided to join them instead of hiking a whole month on my own. I might continue for a few days after that but the idea basically was to save up vacation days for something more fantastic later that year: the John Muir Trail. It is heart stoppingly beautiful!

This way, I still get my AT experience, in the Smokeys, with a group of like minded people but I won't have to use up all of my vacation days. And later that year, I'll be heading to Yosemite to start the JMT. I even ound a few Yonder Buds who'd be interested in joining me. Pretty exciting. Because the JMT is a big one, with 10 passes and a final ascent to Mt. Whitney. There are a few supply points but you'll be on your own for the last 7 to 9 days. I'd better start training right away

A for Drugs

It works. I sleep like the literal baby (for comments on my false use of the word "literally" see the comment box below), I feel balanced and I'm in a suspiciously good mood pretty much all the time.

I give you a second to let it sink in. Right? For those of you who know me this might come as a shock: but I even went to the fair without coercion or bribery of any sort. Ok, gotta admit, that I uttered a few "I hate the fair"'s while there but after the third one, Nadine gave me the evil eye. So I stopped. She spent time and efforts to organize the evening, so who am I to piss on her parade .... New me started having a few beers and ended up having a good time ... at the fair!

I sing at work, I play pranks and joke around. To a degree that some co-workers went to see my boss about my "new drug problem". No drugs, folks. I just started to like me again. It's been a process ever since I realized that I was tired of being tired of myself. I don't know how else to put it. And I don't want to go into details about that. Maybe in a later post. For years I nurtured a growing dissatisfaction, with no idea however  (or better: inner strength) to break out of the cycle. 

The whole process of hiking gave me a new perspective. In so many different ways, actually. I feel good about myself, because I exercice to a certain degree. Spending time outside in the woods, breathing fresh air, soaking in the views, feeling the sun on your skin, it all builds up. When I´m not outside or at work, I am looking for new hiking trails in and around Luxembourg, I´m scouting new locations and reading up on gear. Some might call it a hobby. To me, it´s an adventure. And it has only begun. So ... lots to come, and sooner than you think. Yay. 

PS: I´ve been surprised to see that there actually are a few people ending up on my blog from time to time. Please drop a comment to let me know what you think. It´ll be greatly appreciated. 

Staging area

So, Scotland ... A country which has always been floating around on my "To-Do"-list and I've never gotten around to go to. But now, it's settled and booked: I am going to hike the West Highland Way, WHW in short, in October. 140 km in 7 days. From Milngavie (say: Mull-Guy) to Fort William. The longest stretch being 30 km, from Tyndrum to Kingshouse. I'll pass Loch Lommond, Glen Coe, Ben Nevis, the Glengoyne Distillery and the (supposedly) oldest pub in Scotland in Drymen.

A good project to start this new endeavour. Still demanding but not too tough, with lots of "support infrastructure", if needed. And G-O-R-G-E-O-U-S! Take a look at this:

Since there are a lot of different lodging possibilities along the way, I decided not to go with the tent. Wild camping is allowed in Scotland, but I did not want to buy the new, lightweight tent right away. I wanted to backpack the whole way but several companies offer a baggage transfer service for a decent fee. It wasn't an easy decision, since I wanted this to be a test run for the big one, but I guess, I will try the transfer and go with a day pack instead. I want to be able to stop at gorgeous places, marvel and hang out for a while, without time being an issue on the trail. And with stretches of mostly 20 to 24 km, carrying a 40-lbs-backpack will make you lose an hour a day. Furthermore, weather can be tricky in October, so I need a lot of layers and different weather gear. Travel Lite offers such a service and they are conveniantly located at the start of the trail in Milngavie, in a place called The Iron Chef, where they also sell some last minute trekking stuff. I guess, I'll decide on the spot.

As for lodging, I hired Easyways to help me out with booking. The company offers its services for a lot of long distance hiking trails in the UK, including fixed priced walks and self guided walks. I mailed them my itinerary and a few days later, they came up with the according lodging. You can choose from 3 categories: Hotels / B&B / Bunkhouses and camping pods. I chose the latter and they came up with a very good price. I fly out to Glasgow on October, 1st and head up to Milngavie on October, 2nd. I will arrive in Fort William on October 11, leaving Glasgow on October 13. That gives me one more day to either check out Fort William or rent a car and drive up to Eilean Donan Castle, 90 minutes from Fort William. Here it is:

I'll figure it out up there. But that castle looks pretty cool. It would be a 50 minute drive to Loch Ness. But as far as I heard, it's just a loch of water ... 

Can't wait ... 

Hello again

I feel bad: I haven't been writing as much as I wanted to. I am sorry, blog. I will do better, I promise. It's not for a lack of material ... Especially during my hikes, my mind wanders off to some pretty cool stuff. But pen and paper are quite unhandy to handle while climbing up a volcano.

Yep, you've read right: I climbed a volcano two weeks ago. Even three. They've been extinct for millions of years and flatted over by millennia of erosion but it was a volcano nonetheless. Officially labeled and such. I did the Volcano-Summit-Path in the German Vulkaneifel, a geologically interesting region close to home with rugged terrain stretching over one of the oldest mountain ranges on our planet.

Vulkaneifel, Germany

   

Yep, it escalated fast. Going outdoors is like a drug. I try to maintain a rhythm of at least 3 hikes a week. Mostly around my hometown. There is a stretch of 8 km I particularly enjoy. And most of the time, I got the woods all for myself (and the dog). I put the headphones on, listen to an audio book (The Martian, Andy Weir: what a great read!!) and head down the path. It soothes me and I sleep like a baby ever since I picked up those hiking shoes. And when I'm not hiking, I scour through hiking journals, gear magazines and travel blogs, to find new inspiration.

My favorite local trail: Larochette - Medernach - Larochette

Plotting gear is almost as much fun as the hiking part itself. Monday, I spent an hour (60 full minutes!) discussing day packs with a sales assistant at the outdoors shop. A full hour ... The most I ever spent time on a purchase was 30 minutes a few years back when I bought the only fancy suit I own. And now I am browsing through day packs, fitting them, dragging on zips and checking out bladder compartments. (I bought a Deuter Futura 28 btw. Deuter is good value. It's my third piece of D-gear).

Don't get me wrong: I do have a shopping issue. It's like a compulsive disorder: I enter a store and I HAVE to buy something. Anything. Like any compulsive disorder, it has to be NOW and THERE. But with hiking gear, I started being thorough and careful. For instance, I should have never bought the Jetboil Flash on a whim. Jetboil is good stuff. The Flash is as well. But if I had taken my time, I would have read that Jetboil issued a new PCS (personal cooking system) with the ability to simmer. The Flash is (as the name suggests) extremely fast. It boils water in a matter of minutes. But you cannot cook with the Flash. The new Mini Mo has a regulator though. And I will have to purchase this one for the long trip (AT). For now though, the Flash is good enough. 

It will suit me fine on the West Highland Way. More on that later. Same goes for a tent. I own a regular two person tent, 50 bucks, weighing 50 lbs (at least, that's what it feels like). It's enough for now. In the Vulkaneifel, I could drive up to the camping ground and pitch the tent right there out of the car. So no worries about the weight. But I will need to get me a light, one person tent for the big one. I've been scouring through gear blogs and my new bible, backpacker magazine. And I'm pretty sure, I'll go with the classic, MSR Hubba NX. They issued a reboot of that classic and it seems to be pretty swell at a decent price. 300 to 350 bucks for 2 lbs 7 oz. Or a Big Agnes, like the Copper Spur. But I'll hold off for a while longer. First, I won't need the tent for another few months. I'm proud of myself for being so reasonable once. Secondly, Big Agnes is issuing a new series of Mountainglow Tents in 2016, with integrated LED lights and ventilation system, compatible with a solar panel ... Ok, I start to sound like a nerd. And I guess I am. See what I mean? Gear shopping is almost as exciting as the hiking part itself. 

I'm hooked. That's what I wanted to say. It feels like I've finally waken up from a deep slumber and I found something I really like. And it's such a basic thing. Millions of outdoor enthousiasts do it around the world. I know that I always had an urge in the back of my head. When I was standing at the south rim of Grand Canyon two years ago, I wanted nothing more than to strap on a backpack and head down the trail. Same goes for Yosemite. But there was something holding me back. We even discussed using a tent in the National Parks, before booking that trip. But I held back. Why? No idea. I guess, back then, backpacking and trekking was something other people do. But you can take me up on this: I will head back to Grand Canyon. Soon. And I will make it to Havasu Falls. 

But there are so many terrific places on earth. And I've been compiling a list of "projects" for the next months. First, I will head up to Scotland. In October. It's all booked for already. My first bigger hike. Yay. The trail of choice? The West Highland Way. And as time runs out, here is a scrap for the next 12 to 16 months: 

1. WHW in October 2015

2. section hike the AT in March/April 2016

3. Backpacking in the Lofoten (Norway islands) in Summer 2016

4. GR 20 (Corse) or US National Parks in late 2016 / beginning of 2017). 

Talk to you later.

Done

That was harder than expected. Especially the second day. While the first 20 km from Larochette over Beaufort to Mëllerdall were quite flat, the stretch over Berdorf to Echternach seemed to be determined to break my enthousiasm. After the first few hikes I was surprised that my different body parts were ok with my sudden decision to take up hiking. But on monday ... oh boy. They made me suffer. Them, the zillions ups and downs along the trail and the 30 lbs backpack, who sat on my back like a small devil dissing my efforts while whispering demotivatingly in my ear.

But I made it nonetheless. When I came out on top of Wolfs Canyon, high above the city of Echternach, I felt like the settlers catching their first glimpse of the Pacific. Behind me the most beautiful trail of the country. Unfortunateley the last couple of miles were more like a blur since I mainly concentrated on setting one foot before the other. A task quite complicated I might add, after 30 miles in two days and a night on the floor (Note to myself: invest in a better pad).

There was a certain spring in ny step when I entered the gas station next to the bus stop I was heading for. Overflowing with self confidence, I told the attendant what I've just accomplished. "And now you're ruining it all by eating all the chocolate", she replied with a smirk, glancing at the "food" laid out in front of her.

I wanted to tell her about the need for our high calorie intake but I knew she wouldnt get it. We hikers are a republic for ourselves ...

I've been quite busy this week, as you probably can tell by the fact that I haven't written anything for several days. But that does not mean that my determination has faded. Quite "au contraire" my friends.

Work has been interesting. Usually, news are quite slow this time a year. We call it "Summerlach": summer hole. It's that time of the year when elusive leopards suddenly appear in the woods of the Grand-Duchy, politicians send in inquiries about "monster rats" and the stolen bike becomes first page news. EVERYONE is away. And I have this feeling, that it is even worse in Luxembourg. During school holidays half of the country vanishes for a couple of months. On the one hand, traffic becomes bearable all of the sudden, but on the other hand, journalists begin to doubt their qualities. You get handed a story in the morning, or you come up with something halfway decent, and you hit the phones. You leave messages but no one calls back. Until September, 15th. In the afternoon, you suddenly get a police bulletin and you squeeze the last little bit out of the few "chiens écrasés" (journalist lingo for traffic and petty crime news, meaning "dogs hit by a car". Or "Blut und Sperma" - blood and sperm ... journalists are quite a weird bunch of people with a pretty peculiar sense of humour btw. more on this later though) just to fill your 3 minutes of news.

But this year, people have been very busy providing us with stuff to report on. Good for us. So, anyway, busy week. But I did get the time to get out on the trails around my hometown. I've been out there three times this week, exploring the woods. As a kid, we've been in those woods the whole summer long. Playing Indiana Jones, building tree houses and huts, exploring the quarry behind our property. So it was fun, revisiting all those great places or trails we used to ride our bikes on for days without end.

On another note, I guess I got hooked up on gear. I've been visiting outdoor stores, looking up backpacking blogs and online shops whenever I got the chance these past few days. First conclusion: I need to stop buying stuff. Although I started compiling a list with gear and material for the big trip, I kept buying things which were not really a priority. But they sure will come in handy ... If they survive the cut.

Because right now, I am panicking. I've been reading a lot about backpacking, hiking and the AT. With the most recurring topic being weight and packing light. And I really don't know why, but it did not occur to me for one second, that I would be affected by the same problem. I was secretly laughing at all those people telling stories about how they struggled with their heavy backpacks until they had the opportunity to get rid certain things. And while I was laughing, I kept adding things to the list and compiling gear. To be honest, they will come in handy. Like the mobile sonar panel to charge my electric devices. Or the 10 L sink, to transport water from the source to the camp, to wash the dishes or yourself.

I'm months away from going on the trail and my backpack is already FULL! I decided to go on my first two-day-test-hike tomorrow and my pack is FULL¨! Besides the essential gear (tent, mattress, sleeping bag), I only packed food and clothes for two day. And it is FULL ... with material for two days. In Luxembourg. Close to home. How am I supposed to last a full month on an infamous hiking trail in March, 5000 miles away from home?

But I'm already working on that. I packed the sleeping bag in the main compartment of the backpack and it takes up half of the space. And there is some wiggling room left with the tent and the mattress. Both are cheap, low end and heavy. I will get new, lighter gear before hitting the AT. For now, this is good enough.

So, back to my "trip": I will hike a section of the Mullerthal Trail again. Day One will take me from Larochette to Mullerthal, but on a different loop than last week. It's about 22 km, passing Medernach and Berdorf. Supposedly a very nice trail . On Day Two, I'll hike to Echternach, adding another 13 km to the route. At that point, I will decide if I add another day, hiking back to Mullerthal on a different loop.

I guess, we'll know more by Tuesday. I'll keep you posted.

13,5 km ...

A little more than 8.2 miles on my first outing. A section of Trail 3 of the Mullerthal Trail, from Blumenthal to Heringer Millen. Not too bad, right? And I am pretty happy with the overall result too.

Obviously, I am tired and for the last 1.5 mile my right shin started twitching, just above the shoe. Maybe a posture thing. We'll see. But, most importantly, my knees are ok and so are my feet. 

The shoes are great: Lowa Taurus GTX mid. For once in my life, I did not rush into a consumer decision (meaning buying stuff right away, there, on the spot) but I took the time to pester a poor lady with questions over questions. She (at McTrek's in Trier) did an outstanding job in guiding me  to those shoes. They are great. There is no other way to put it: Even though they look humungous and solid, they weigh less than two pounds the pair. And they are extremely comfy. No blisters, after 8 miles breaking them in.

On the other hand, I got to improve my hydration system. I dug out an "old" camel bag I bought two years ago, when I felt like riding the bike more regularly (I ended up riding 3 times). And I bought a plastic bottle with integrated straw yesterday, for about 10 Euro. Both won't do the trick. It's like drinking cold, liquified plastic. I guess I need to invest a little more for a decent stainless steal kind of thing, or two. And I'll leave the purification process for later on. 

Overall, it was a success. And I am looking forward to my next hike. I was thinking of having a few more day hikes these next weeks, gradually increasing the length and weight. And by the end of summer, I want to go out there for a two or three day hike, geared up and fully loaded. The full AT-simulation ...

First steps

Let the fun begin

Plotting

Hey y'all,

So many decisions ... Since I'm not in the best physical shape, and my last long distance hike is quite a while back (1992-ish), there is a need for a certain degree of preparation. 

My last days consisted in a lot of reading and researching. I like to get a certain "base of knowledge" before tackling a project. Grabbing a few books or guides, looking up stuff in the internet ... I don't go deep, but I map the lay of the land. After getting a general sense for the project, you start plotting. 

That's what I'm doing right now. I've been reading a lot these past days: Bryson's "A Walk In The Woods", David Miller's "AWOL on the Appalachian Trail", hiker journals and other testimonies. There is this great German docu: Durch die Wildnis Amerikas and a bunch of private blogs and video diaries. Like Rob Figulski's docu for instance.

And just like that, you are ready to take first steps.

You need at least 5 to 6 months to hike the whole trail. So you really need to be sure before you ask your employer for a sabbatical. Remember the stare? I am working as a radio journalist and presenter for Luxembourg's biggest news outlet. I won't say that I am irreplacable (although it is a nice thought) but my spot in the rotation has to be filled. That's why my company does not do sabbaticals. And I get it. The market for presenters is tight right now and you would have to train a replacement, just to let him go by the time he's ready to go on air.

That taken into account, you REALLY have to be sure. Because the only other way to do this, is to quit. And given the circumstances, that might turn out to be the "most stupidest" idea I had in a long time.

I guess, you do get wiser with age. Because I went for a compromise: I won't be going the whole distance right away. I will start by section hiking the AT. Start at the beginning, on Springer Mountain, in March. And see how far my feet will take me within a few weeks time. I might stumble and crumble after a few miles, throw my hiking boots over the branches at Neels Gap, drive back to Atlanta, visit the Coca Cola Museum and never look back. But I also might enjoy the whole thing, get a glimpse of what I was looking for and decide to come back.

This might be, in my current state of mind and life, the wisest approach possible.

Why?

"Why?" is propably the most FAQ. Why would you leave the safe and comfortable embrace of society, with all its perks, its electricity, its conveniance and - most importantly - its connectivity, and trade it all for a walk in the woods. For days without end, with 50 lbs on your back, countless blisters on your feet, to recuperate in a rodent infested shelter with half a dozen other smelly bearded men. Why, indeed ...

I've been reading quite a lot of accounts and journals these past few days and I guess that, in the end, it always boils down to one of three reasons:

1. to run away from something;
2. to look for something new;
3. to go on an adventure.

Or, as for me, all of the above.

I had a little wake up call a while back. My life had become a dull routine and work was all I lived for. Don't get me wrong: I love my job but I guess I became too consumed by it all. And I'm still pissed at myself. Because I had a good thing going for me back then. But by the time I had my priorities straight, it was too late.

It's been a journey ever since and I guess I need this to close the chapter once and for all.

I've aimlessy been on the lookout for a new project for a while now. Because when I saw the FB picture of a friend, who just finished the Camino in Europe, it hit me: A long distance hike might just be what I need. A physical challenge which needs a lot of preparation and planning. Something to fill me out for the months to come, with a huge reward in the end. 

But why the AT? I remembered the trailer for "A walk in the woods", the movie based on Bill Bryson's book. So, I started looking up the Appalachian Trail. And the more I read, the more I knew. It is a challenge, for sure. You can stay in the woods for days or weeks at a time, just relying on yourself and the things out of your backpack. If needed though, you are always just a few miles away from the next trail town. I like the sense of community on the trail itself. And in every single account I read, in every single interview I watched, the hikers all said the same thing: they absolutely loved it. That means a lot, coming from people who - in most cases - quit their job, left society and all their loved ones behind to head off to a mostly uncertain future. But they loved it. 

 

I guess, I'm the walking cliché then. A guy, tired with everyday life, tries to break out of the routine in reconnecting with nature. So be it. But I am absolutely fascinated by the idea. That's why you'll meet me on Springer Mountain, beginning March. See you there!

Did someone say Cookie?

There is this stare I get, followed by a wide gaze turning into a well meaning smile, when I tell people, what I'm currently up to. Like grandma listening to a seven year old's story about how he is going to grow up to be a professional soccer player. "Of course my dear ... eat your cookie!".

What follows are questions. Tons of questions. The first one usually turns around "What the heck is the AT?", the second one being "WHAT?!" (replaced by a wide eyed emoticon in online conversations). At that point, the person I'm talking to just learned, that the AT (trail lingo for Appalachian Trail) is a two thousand one hundred something mile trail through the Appalachians. Even the ATC, the trail conservancy, is not hundred percent sure how long it really is, since the distance varies throughout various publications. Sometimes even within the same book.

I does not really matter, since it's going to take you five or six months to get from Springer, Georgia to Mount Kathadin in Maine. So, who's counting anyway?

Let me start by telling you a little more about me. And you might get why people around me are shying away from getting in board with my plan: At 35+ and 200 lbs (+), my last physical activity dates back to December. And even then, distributing the xmas presents gave me sores for days. Ok, I might be overselling here but you get my drift. I'm in no condition to walk 500 miles, let alone 2200. With stuff on my back ...

But I like a challenge as much as the next guy and I love planning. There is no greater fun for me than reading in, looking up, researching, comparing, plotting, deciding and executing. And this, my friends, is the mother of all plans.

To me at least it is. Now, stop smiling.